My first experience with Lesotho goes back some time now. It was 2009 and I was shooting an experience called the Big Sky ride with Nic White. It consisted of a bunch of riders of different fitness levels travelling through Lesotho by bike. Not a race but a tour. It was eye-opening and amazing! We experienced snow high up Sani pass with some extreme weather the next day ( heavy snowfall mid-November!) with the weather eventually clearing at the end of the trip. It was sort of a starter in terms of experiencing Lesotho. A really good starter but I was left wanting the main course…
Words and photos by Dominic Barnardt
Roll on to 2021, somewhat post-Covid and I was asked to cover the Lesotho Sky in its 10th Anniversary. This was the main course I was waiting for. I have been through Lesotho on an overland trip and done a few other mountain bike trips. I had yet to still really experience Lesotho as a whole with its amazing people and culture.
I have now learned some basic Sesotho, which would stand me in good stead for future adventures in the Kingdom in the Sky: Metsi – Water, Seretse – Mud, Lehloa – snow and then greetings of Lumela – Hello (the L is pronounced like a D), kea leboha – thank you ! Ok enough of a language lesson…
The Lesotho Sky event brought magic moments and more to reality. Plus the most amazing scenery, arm-pumping brake-disc heating descents, leg-burning, mind-testing, never-ending climbs and then also the overload of nature and dodging the odd herd of goats and/or cattle – and sometimes overly protective shepherds dogs!
This year’s Lesotho sky was as amazing as last years in my experience. A small crew of organisers and technical staff looking well after a diverse group of adventurous riders of all fitness levels. That being said, you need to be strong for these rides and they are not for inexperienced mountain bikers.
It started at Ramabanta Lodge, which was an old trading post from years gone by. It’s a very small town in the heart of Lesotho about two hour’s drive from Maseru, the capital. It is nestled up on the slopes near the majestic Makhaleng River. Last year they experienced heavy rainfalls with flooding and the river flexed its might and washed away a number of footbridges of which we saw the remnants of while riding on Day 1. We rode for two amazing days around Ramabanta and then headed to Malealea Lodge for the next leg and three days of riding.
Our transit day was super well timed. Waking up we witnessed snow-capped peaks near Ramabanta and whilst traveling, experienced some heavy rain and really chilly weather. So always pack casual and riding winter gear if you’re doing this event. The mountains can have those four-seasons-in-one-day kind of weather. After reaching Malealea we could see more snow-capped mountains. Luckily the weather was clear if somewhat fresh for our start, riding around a big peak which lies to the east of the lodge.
It culminated with a final day doing the route used for the Malealea Monster, which is a well-known one-day event. The name does say it all. Some heavy climbing of around 1500m over 55km. There was also a much shorter route of 25km, which still had an amazing descent in to the Makhaleng River basin and one really big climb. The 55km had three pretty big climbs, so definitely for the fitter rider.
A few riders joined for the one-day event, including locals from Lesotho and also some development riders. These guys and girls had grit. They were riding some really old retro bikes and sending it down the hectic descents like mountain goats. They also persevered through the hot day to do the last massive climb.
Lesotho is not flat at all with only the western part having some flat plains. For the most Lesotho is dominated by the Maluti Mountain Range. It also boasts the title of being the only country lying above 1400m above sea level.
The trails are a combination of dirt roads, cattle and goat tracks and also some sweet singletrack (Mike’s trail near Malealea Lodge is amazing). They are not all groomed to perfection, so it keeps you on your toes having to read the terrain for the best line, watching out for the odd rock and erosion rut here and there. Trails do split from time time, but Chris will also brief you about the route the night before reminding you about key sections and splits and what to watch out for in general.
Checking that you are on course every now and then with your GPS is a definite must, so you don’t go riding off into the vast Maluti range! A GPS will guide you well for each day’s track. Besides using a Garmin device this year, I was fortunate enough to be on an e-bike. A tool that I would say is really necessary if: a) your fitness level is not great; b) you have to lug around a heavy camera bag; c) you have to get ahead of some really fit riders on big climbs!
There was another rider, Manfred from Germany, who rode an e-bike. He did battery swop outs at the water point for each day. This gave him more than enough range to cover the longer days and he could enjoy the views a bit more than the other riders. That being said the shorter days really had some punch. The technical terrain with the elevated climbing of each day still made one sweat and feel a bit toast after each day.
The awesome water points, sponsored by Alliance, which has been sponsoring every Lesotho Sky since its inception in 2011, were well stocked with small potatoes, bananas, hard-boiled eggs and then all the other snacks and energy bars including the awesome choc brownies from Maseru Pick n Pay! I did sample all these goods and can confirm they pass the quality check and kept me smiling and powered up. My body that is, not my e-bike!
A FEW LESOTHO SKY FACTS
- It was started by riding buddies and varsity friends Christian Schmidt and Darol
- Howes in 2011
- Christian spent five years of his childhood in a village called Morija and, together with his passion for cycling, are the foundation of the Lesotho Sky Event
It was more a race back then, with teams of 2 competing for glory with 22 riders from 5 nations - From 2012-2018 the event grew significantly and was awarded UCI status which resulted in the participation of local and international pro-riders
- At its peak it had 100 riders from various countries
- They had routes around Maseru, the capital of Lesotho in years past, which proved challenging with various road closures
- There was no event in 2020 and since last year, the Lesotho Sky is a now a guided mountain bike tour, without official timing.
MY PERSONAL HIGHLIGHTS
- Chatting to local shepherds and kids enroute. We did learn some basic Sesotho and had fun evenings where we learnt a few news words each evening.
- Ha ke na Limponpong is a must as a lot of kids ask for sweets – So you worked it out correctly – it means: I don’t have any sweets.
- Chilling under the shade of some rare pine trees on the slopes near Maleale while waiting for riders and sharing a drink with a local shepherd.
- Seeing the Makhaleng River and riding along its banks, crossing it a few times to get wet shoes! Super amazing views along the river.
- Having fines in the evening that ranged from myself being fined for being naughty!? To losing a lens cap/small crash to Christian giving inaccurate route elevation for Day 1, multiple riders forgetting to activate live location on WhatsApp, the medics getting two flats on Day 1 and then again on Day 4! So you get the idea. These fines, which raised R3100 went towards the Malealea Trail funds to communities that helped restore two of the descents into the Makhaleng river basin, so a really worthy cause.
- Seeing two new waterfalls on riding days at Malealea. The heart and kindness of the people is amazing and last year I even lost my phone (riding shorts with shallow pockets) and it was returned to me a day-and-a-half later, after passing many hands to get back to me.
- Then there’s the Makwenya which is like a small, sweet vetkoek, which is super nice! And they only cost a Rand each! And of course, as mentioned earlier, the amazing choc brownies from Maseru Pick n Pay.
- Ok we can’t end off with food (the meals at both lodges are amazing too). Meeting and getting to know amazing people that love mountain biking and love adventure is what Lesotho Sky is all about. Different backgrounds and nationalities and ethnicity. Yet we all enjoyed the amazing outdoors and nature that Lesotho has to offer.
LESOTHO SKY 2023
For those wanting to do the event in 2023, here is some information:
Date: Monday 11-Saturday 16 September 2023
ENTRY PACKAGE
7 nights accommodation, 3x meals a day (breakfast, lunch & dinner)
5 riding days + 1 moving/rest day = 6 days of REAL mountain biking
amazing options for supporters & families including rock pools, water falls, shorter rides, pony treks, trail runs & hikes (booked separately on request)Limited to 20 riders
Transport of luggage between the base camps
The 1st night (Sunday, 10th Sept 2023) BEFORE the first stage and the 7th night AFTER the final stage (Saturday, 16th Sept 2023) are included in your package. You don’t want to miss out on the legendary bonfire night and leave relaxed, after breakfast, on Sunday morning.
A challenging route with optional Strava segments. Timing is not compulsory. Prizes awarded at discretion of organisers.
1 or 2 water points per day with plenty of drinks, water and a variety of snacks – sweet and savoury
A world-class GPS mountain bike route4x4 Safety vehicles including professional medical support.
Professional Bike Guides from Lesotho (there will be three groups for slow, medium & fast riders). If you manage to beat the fastest rider from Lesotho, you may expect a special award. Note: Basotho riders are not only fast but will keep you good company and make sure every rider (and bicycle) makes it to the finishA daily route briefing with pictures from the days riding.
A professional photographer will capture epic scenery, culture and of course amazing riding shots. Various formats of the media crews work will be available to you after the race.
An experience of a lifetime riding though villages (eagerly awaiting your arrival) and breathtaking roads, singletrack and goat paths under the in the shadow of the Maluti Mountains.
Mechanical support provided by Lesotho Bike Hangar: included is a daily wash & lube. Spare parts or major servicing will be charged at fair rates for labour and parts.
Massage and physio services (30min – 45min daily massage is included), extra may be booked and paid if space is available
Basotho riders are not only fast but will keep you good company and make sure every rider (and bicycle) makes it to the finish
E-BIKE FRIENDLY
You are welcome with your e-bike, a full suspension is a MUST. Lesotho’s trails are technically demanding and you should be comfortable with riding up and down steep and narrow singletrack. Regardless of which bike you ride, this is NOT a ride for beginners. The longest stage is approximately 60km and should you require an additional battery you may give it to the water point crew.
NOT INCLUDED AND TO BE PAID IN CASH AT REGISTRATION AND/OR BEFORE/DURING THE RACE:
Airport transfers to/from Maseru International Airport (MSU), Johannesburg O.R. Tambo (JNB) or Bloemfontein (BFN)
Transfers to/from the start of the event for riders WITHOUT their own vehicle – additional drinks, snacks at the base camps
Alcoholic beverages at the base camps
Prices for 7 nights, 3 meals a day:
Riders solo lodged : R 29 950 PP
Riders sharing lodged : R 28 900 PP
Supporters sharing lodged : 7000 PP (sharing, incl. meals)
For more information, check out the website here.
2022 LESOTHO SKY GALLERY
